It’s a little bit of everything, with a clear focus on seasonality-meaning rotation can be expected-which is perfect for a neighborhood restaurant, and one that’s right in the thick of a community always hungry for more. Spice-friendly guests can tuck into vibrant harissa-rubbed roast chicken, while those looking to lighten up can do it with kumquat-topped hamachi crudo, then finish it all off with a summery stone fruit tarte tatin. Those who like to branch out might opt for guinea hen and cocoa ravioli with rosemary and sauternes, or keep it classic and crisp with a refreshing wax bean and toasted-almond salad. Separated into appetizers, crudo, pasta and a section for meat, fish and game, Molina’s first full-service restaurant of his own offers a perfect situation for the mix-and-match enthusiasts, with a little something for nearly any craving. Hippo aims to help fill the void, serving something between what Molina fans may remember from his years at Osteria Mozza and Pizzeria Mozza, and his straightforward but always satisfying food program at Everson Royce Bar. As of last night, what might be the most anticipated of them all finally arrived: Meet Hippo, a neighborhood spot serving shareable and approachable fare in one of the area's sleekest settings.įor all Highland Park’s trendiness-its booming vegan scene, its plentiful cocktail bars and gastropubs, and its ample quick-and-casual gems-the area is woefully short on neighborhood restaurants: the kinds of places where date nights can still feel like a treat without a splurge, where everyone in the family-kids included-are comfortable, where residents can become regulars without a second thought, and where a well-rounded but accessible menu can appeal to the nibblers, the ravenous, the sharers, the picky eaters and the adventurous all at the same table. He is probably going nowhere on the 10 Freeway this very second.When Triple Beam Pizza launched along Figueroa Street earlier this year, chef Matt Molina and Silverlake Wine owners Randy Clement and Joe Capella planted a flag in a sleepy building complex, with the promise of more concepts to come. One that may involve elements like oysters with gazpacho granita, pork ribs, almond wood-grilled sirloin and guinea hen ravioli with Sauternes and cocoa.Īnd probably should when you think about it. Ask for an Old Man Brunk with rye, poblano, cynar, vermouth and pickle brine before opening up to David Rosoff's wine proposals.Įither way, a memorable, contrary to trends, in no way extortionate dinner should follow. Assume a four-top on the floor or drape yourselves all over the green banquettes on the side. Do whatever you need to do to make it here. They really have so much in common.īring a date. It's also a large, semi-aquatic African mammal counted among the world's most dangerous. Hippo is a warm, attractive dining room centered on an open kitchen and a joyous orange flower mural below bare trussed lumber that you'll find stashed behind Triple Beam Pizza. The perfect place to begin: Hippo, a convivial new Highland Park restaurant now open from James Beard Award-strapped former Mozza chef Matt Molina with partners from Everson Royce and Silverlake Wine. Gold would've wanted, so damn right you will. This week, you'll overdo it on the oysters, pasta and poblano-chili-and-pickle-juice cocktails.
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